Patterns for Irish Dance
My mother has always made my solo dresses for me and because they’re for me, I’m usually the one who ends up browsing the net for patterns. So I decided to put my findings together so that, hopefully, others won’t have to spend hours and hours doing the same.
When we’ve tried them, I’ve put a kind of indicator behind them to show how hard they are to use. Obviously, commercial patterns for Riverdance style dresses are always simpler than completely modifying the FeisDress pattern to make a Elevation style dress. Also, all patterns are given stars for the dress the pattern was designed for. So the Irish Threads pattern for example is rated for a normal 3-panel, high-waisted dress, because that’s the basic pattern. What you are able do to a pattern to modify it is not for me to judge of course. Please remember: the opinions given are
MY AND MY MOTHER’S OPINIONS ONLY! You may find a pattern harder or easier to use, but it may give you some idea as to the suitability.
Right, let’s go!
Solo dress patterns:
* = simple (does this term exist where solos are concerned?). You’ll be able to use this pattern without needing too much sewing experience.
** = medium. This pattern may require some figuring out, but if you know how to sew, this pattern is fine.
*** = advanced. Don’t try this pattern without prior sewing experience. All patterns are for home-use, so they are absolutely do-able, but know your limits …
Riverdance style dresses:
* = simple. Anyone with basic sewing skills can do this. Pattern is suitable with minimum of adaptations (such as shortening the skirt)
** = medium. Fairly good pattern for its purpose. You may only be able to use part of it or you’ll have to modify it quite a bit.
Accessories and parts:
* = simple
** = medium
# = pattern not tried out by my mother or myself. Maybe others can give an indication?
SOLO DRESSES
Dance World * -- Multi-size patterns, both for children (Dance World 1, ages 3-12) and teens/adults (Dance World 2, sizes 8-18). Very old-fashioned pattern, but super-easy to make. Great for children’s jumpers, beginner dresses and basic school dresses. Box-panel only. Dress has high waist and soft circle skirt with no seams. If you want a more modern dress, don’t bother with this pattern. If you’re not competing and you want something more than a Riverdance dress, but still want a soft and comfy dress, this is your pattern.
www.irishdancewear.net and go to ‘accessories’
Irish Threads ** -- One-size pattern. This used to be THE pattern, but it’s a bit behind. Pattern gives several options for the skirt and panels (3 and 4 panel skirt), as well as neck-lines. High-waisted dress, though. My mother found it hard to modify it to drop the waist and we left it after a few dresses. The pattern is easy to understand though, and it gives a good solid solo dress. If the “latest and greatest” doesn’t mean too much to you, or you like a traditional look, you cannot go wrong with this pattern. Pat from Irish Threads is very kind to answer questions by email.
www.irishthreads.com . . .
FeisDress *** -- One-size pattern. Currently THE best DIY solo dress pattern on the market. The basic pattern is for a 3-panel and the waist is still fairly high, but my mother was able to drop the waist with this pattern and create a more up-to-date look for me. The construction of the skirt required higher education though, and the side pleat construction was a total mystery to us – we decided to design a side pleat ourselves and discard the FeisDress option. Other than that, it’s a great pattern. Skirt can be adapted for multi-panel skirts, but I’d suggest doing that only after first making a 3-panel mock-up to figure out the pattern. Susan from FeisDress is kind enough to help you with questions (she gave us tips about the side pleat, so the fact that we couldn’t figure it out was not her fault).
www.feisdress.com . . .
Custom Dance Wear # -- One-size pattern. We haven’t tried it (we went from Irish Threads to FeisDress and have had no need to look further), but the drawing on the site shows a very old-fashioned dress. Price is about the same as Irish Threads and FeisDress. They do offer a custom pattern service which may be useful to dancers with odd measurements.
www.customdancewear.com . . .
Simplicity 9654 # -- Out-of-print Multi-size pattern. What I’ve heard is that it’s basically a Halloween outfit that would require extensive modifications to make it even remotely acceptable for competition wear. Other than that, it looks a lot like the Dance World dresses, and the latter are perfectly fine and still available. Don’t use it.
RIVERDANCE STYLE
Burda 3274 * -- ADULTS. Multi-size pattern. Our super favorite pattern. Waist is in the right place, skirt is wide enough to dance in (though not super wide), option of long or short sleeve. The only thing we do is shorten the skirt by 3-5 inches. Because it has a princess line, you can make the middle section a different colour which always works well. No waist seam, which is flattering but makes lining the skirt difficult, unless you line the whole dress.
Burda 2464 # – ADULTS. Multi-size pattern. We haven’t tried this one, but from the looks of it I’d say it’s Burda 3274 in a Halloween edition. Here the length is good, but the neck-line is perhaps too deep.
Butterick 4377 ** -- ADULTS. Multi-size pattern. Yes, it’s a pattern for a medieval dress, but it’s very flattering and the fit is sublime. You will have to shorten the skirt (side seams are natural waist, measure down to ± 18” or whatever length you want to skirt to be (don’t forget a seam allowance!) to start with, so you don’t waste too much tracing paper) and the neckline is far too low. Use another pattern with a higher neck (such as Burda 3274) to make the neck line higher. The bodice comes down into a point and the skirt, with inserts, is more than a circle, but only flares out below the hips so it gives a lean look. Use a zipper in the back.
Custom Dance Wear # – One-size pattern. This company sells Princess line dresses and jumpers with a full flare or slight flare. A DM I know told me that the full-flare jumper version has a waist that sits too high on the body.
www.customdancewear.com . . .
Other suggestions:
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Cheerleader patterns. You can use top-and-skirt versions or dress-like options. Simplicity 3689, Simplicity 4040, McCall’s 2849, McCalls 5727 etc. Just browse pattern sites.
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Ice skating patterns. Lengthen the skirts. Jalie sell beautiful patterns, I particularly like Jalie 2791 and 2913, both very “Jean Butler”. Kwiksew sell ice skating patterns as well and I’m sure other companies do too. Stretch fabrics only! Because they have to be made with lycra fabrics, they may be ‘dangerous’ for not-stick-skinny dancers ...
ACCESSORIES AND PARTS
Circle skirts
I’m just giving a few options, you can get patterns for circle skirts anywhere, almost every brand has them.
Custom Dance Wear # – Looks good, sizes XS – XL, I think this is TEENS/ADULTS.
www.customdancewear.com . . .
Burda 2518 * -- ADULTS. Rock ‘n’ Roll. Comes with petticoat. Very simple, with waist band (not elasticated).
Burda 2809 * -- CHILDREN. Same as 2518, but now for children.
Simplicity 5401 * -- CHILDREN. Rock ‘n’ Roll skirt, with waist band. No petticoat. Skirt needs shortening.
Simplicity 5403 * ADULTS. Rock ‘n’ Roll skirt, with waist band. No petticoat. Skirt needs shortening.
Simplicity 3836 * (skirt) -- CHILDREN. Complete 1950s costume, with short-sleeve blouse, petticoat etc. Skirt has a short version as well. I haven’t tried it, but the skirt is still easy. For the blouse I’d say **. Good beginner / first Feis outfit!
Simplicity 3847 * (skirt) -- ADULTS. Complete 1950s costume, with short-sleeve blouse, petticoat etc. Skirt has a short version as well. I haven’t tried it, but the skirt is still easy. For the blouse I’d say **. Good beginner / first Feis outfit!
McCall’s 5681 * -- ADULTS. Rock ‘n’ Roll skirt, with waist band. No petticoat. Skirt needs shortening a lot.
Blouses
I’ve only included blouses that are designed for Irish Dance. If a normal shirt-blouse or peter pan collared blouse is needed, these patterns are sold through all the major brands like Simplicity and McCall’s etc.
Dance World 1 ** -- CHILDREN, ages 3-12. Pattern for solodresses include pattern for jumper with blouse to go with the jumper. Mandarin collar, blouse buttons in the back. Option of slightly flared sleeves or gathered at the wrist.
www.irishdancewear.net and go to ‘accessories’
Custom Dance Wear # – They sell patterns for blouses with mandarin collars, either with basic, slightly flared sleeves or puffed sleeve with elastic wrist. Optional attached bloomers which seem practical to me.
www.customdancewear.com . . .
Bloomers/spankies/lollies/whatever you call the cover-up-your-undies-and-protect-your-modesty-thingies you wear under your solo! 
Any cheerleader pattern that includes bloomers will work. Also, pajama bottoms are suitable.
Boys accessories – Waistcoats etc.
Burda 2622 * – CHILDREN. Waistcoat, cummerbund, tie, bow tie. The waistcoat seems to be a good length
Simplicity 4762 # -- CHILDREN & ADULTS. Waistcoat (single and double breasted) and tie.
Kwiksew 3662 # – ADULTS. Waistcoat
Boys accessories – Pants
Jalie 2325 # – ADULTS. Ice skate pants, slim fit, no waist band, with belt loops. This might just be a good pair of pants for Irish Dance!
Jalie 2803 # – CHILDREN & ADULTS. Ice skate pants, slim fit, no waist band, with belt loops. This might just be a good pair of pants for Irish Dance!
PATTERNS FOR ADAPTING OTHER PATTERNS
These are two patterns I’ve found being suggested to make the super dropped waist bodices for modern solo dresses. You’ll need other patterns as well, these are just tools to help you adjust existing Irish Dance solo dress patterns!
Burda 9761 – CHILDREN. Dropped, pointed waist. You may want to drop the waist even more, but this pattern will help you on your way
Vogue 8510 – ADULTS. Waist looks dropped enough for a puffball. If my mother makes me a new dress before I’ve saved up enough for an Elevation, we will definitely try this one.
